From the Gym to the Crag: How to Transition from Indoor Climbing to Outdoor Rock Climbing

Despite the explosion of climbing gyms worldwide, fewer climbers are venturing into the great outdoors. For some, it can seem like a daunting step riddled with uncertainty. How do we avoid committing a climbing faux pas? Which holds can we use? How do I get down? These are important questions. Here are some tips to consider when venturing outdoors for the first time.

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Photo by Sean Benesh

1. Hire a Guide: This is the only surefire way to make the first outdoor climbing experience successful. Local guides will not only have all the equipment needed, but they often possess unprecedented knowledge concerning the area and routes. Guides will provide valuable advice on technique, etiquette, and, most importantly, a safe climbing experience for the uninitiated. If they fail to do the latter, most definitely request a refund.

2. Learn the Basics: Knowing how to 'top out' is an essential skill for climbing outside. In contrast to climbing in the gym, there are few match hands* to finish outdoors. (Although they do exist on some sport routes.) For some climbs, the top is unremarkable. For others, it can be the crux. Route reading* is a basic skill all climbers need to learn, whether inside or outside. Read the route as best you can and plan for topping out*. If bouldering*, it’s also good practice to identify a safe down climb. The down climb is notorious for causing the migrant gym climber to rethink their venture outdoors. Additionally, skills such as anchor building*, belaying, and route finding are all good to know before heading outdoors. Tip #1 is an easy way to facilitate this process and is highly advised for beginning climbers.

Photo by Cade Prior

3. Know the Risks: Outdoor climbing involves additional risks compared to indoor climbing, such as unpredictable weather conditions, loose rock, and wildlife encounters. Familiarize yourself with the potential hazards of outdoor climbing and learn how to mitigate them to ensure a safe climbing experience. Nothing sours a great outdoor climbing day more than injury or inclement weather.

4. Invest in Yourself: While many indoor climbing gyms provide rental equipment, investing in your own outdoor climbing gear is essential for safety and comfort. Borrowing equipment is fine to begin with, but nothing quells imposter syndrome quite like your own harness, climbing shoes, and chalk bag*. Dozens of fancy gear devices serve a single (and sometimes vague) purpose. Avoid these at the start. Instead, find lightly used secondhand gear, or, better yet, invest in some new stuff for yourself!

5. Know the Rules (or rather, subtle etiquette): Respect for the environment and other climbers is paramount in outdoor climbing areas. Familiarize yourself with local climbing regulations, leave-no-trace principles, and etiquette for sharing climbing routes and belay stations with other climbers. Again, Tip #1 will be incredibly useful for getting the lay of the land wherever you decide to climb.

6. Start Small: When transitioning to outdoor climbing, start with routes well within your indoor climbing abilities. Familiarize yourself with the grading system used in outdoor climbing areas, as grades can vary significantly between indoor and outdoor routes. As a rule of thumb, outdoor routes and boulders are usually more difficult than their indoor equivalent. Especially in the Northeast, climbs are typically sandbagged*.

7. Compete Against Yourself: Outdoor climbing can feel intimidating at first, especially if you're accustomed to the controlled environment of a climbing gym. Take your time to build confidence gradually, starting with easy climbs and gradually progressing to more challenging routes as you gain experience and skill.

Photo by Jed Villejo

8. Bring Friends Along: Climbing with experienced outdoor partners can provide valuable mentorship and support as you transition outdoors. Seek opportunities to climb with experienced climbers who can offer guidance, share their knowledge, and help you navigate outdoor climbing challenges.

9. Seek Discomfort: Outdoor climbing conditions can be unpredictable, and routes may vary in difficulty and style compared to indoor climbs. Stay adaptable and open-minded, and be prepared to adjust your climbing strategy and techniques based on the unique characteristics of each outdoor route. You will often be uncomfortable at least once during the first day of outdoor climbing. Acceptance goes a long way in diluting the suffering required when venturing outdoors.

10. Take Deep Breaths & Enjoy the Ride: Above all, remember to enjoy the experience of outdoor climbing. Appreciate the natural beauty of your surroundings, the sense of adventure, and the exhilaration of climbing in the great outdoors. Embrace the learning process, stay curious, and enjoy exploring new climbing destinations. Remember, there are thousands of crags around the world. Climbing can take you wherever you want. Stick with it, and your hard work and perseverance shall be rewarded!

Glossary:

match hands - when indoors, a climb is completed only if the climber can touch the last hold of the climb with both hands

Photo by Mathew Hume

route reading - familiarizing yourself with the features of the route or boulder

topping out - climbing up and over the ledge of a boulder or route

bouldering - gymnastic climbing on boulders or boulder-height outcroppings - normally done without the protection of a top rope.

anchor - a belay or rappel point generally atop a pitch, marked by fixed protection (like bolts) or built using removable protection.

chalk bag - a small, toggle-sealing lined bag climbers wear around their waists so they can access chalk while climbing.

(Climbing Dictionary, Matt Samet 2011)